Westminster Abbey

Saturday 11 June:

Today we decided to devote to the religious aspects of life in London. After another hearty breakfast we had to navigate ourselves to Westminster Abbey which is directly behind the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben. Several tube lines were closed for maintenance but Katy and Greg were able to navigate us to the right stop. We exited the station directly into crowds of tourists from all over Europe. We have not heard or seen many Americans this trip so far, but lots of other Europeans in huge groups. Fighting our way through the babble of many languages and cultures (and scents) we finally jumped out at the entrance to the Abbey and entered (paying for the privilege of course).

The abbey (started as Benedictine Abbey, now the seat of the Church of England-thank you Henry VIII) takes no money from any public source and the upkeep is huge. We were told by the snaggle tooth entrance guard that 3,300 souls are buried inside and we saw most of them. The abbey started out as a northern representative of the Catholic church and was built in the 1065 (Edward the Confessor was King at the time and felt the need for a large abbey to support his beliefs). The architecture is gothic at its best, with vaulted ceilings, flying buttresses and ornate carvings...all from stone. The stained glass windows and carved tombs are nearly indescribable. Sadly, no pictures are allowed inside...but wait, Greg was able to take a few (hundred) without being observed. He is sneaky like that. We saw tombs of kings (different Henrys and Edwards) queens (Elizabeth I and a couple of Marys), commoners (a Jones), poets (Kipling, Browning, Lord Byron), musicians (Haydn) and scientists (Isaac Newton and Charles Darwin). We availed ourselves of the (free) audio program which is narrated by Jeremy Irons and is quite good.

After about 3 hours, feeling suitably holy, we left and walked along St. James Park, stopping to see the War Rooms of Churchill. No time for that museum because we have reservations at Fortnum and Mason in the St. James restaurant for afternoon tea. The park is full of birds and aggressive little squirrels as well as beautiful blooming flowers, elm, oak and weeping willow trees as well as a small lake. It had been raining off and on all day so our walk was cool and refreshing, too bad our feet remained hot and aching!

Up Regent Street to Jermyn Street-passed numerous men's haberdashers and shirtmakers then up to Piccadilly and into F & M. On the fourth floor is the gentile and rarified atmosphere of the St. James restaurant. Jasmine tea, lemonade, cucumber, smoked salmon, egg salad and ham and cheese sandwiches on a variety of breads (all with the crusts cut off). OF COURSE we had scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam then a cream cake with a candied violet on top of purple icing and a raspberry tartlett. Katy and I made Greg slow down and leisurely enjoy the ritual of tea time in England. He had fun, we had fun and no one stacked the dishes. The place was full of mostly English folks enjoying themselves too. Then down to see the other floors then out the door at 8:00 pm to limp (literally) back to the hotel stuffed full of carbohydrates and caffeine.

Tomorrow to Waterloo station; the train to Southampton and embarking on the cruise.